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October 15, 2004 By Wendy Adeler Hall
Ancient
Egyptian jewelers created designs using elements of nature that had magical or
religious significance. The scarab beetle, the favored adornment of the time,
represented the sun and creation. Lotus flowers represented resurrection. If
the gems or minerals used were not themselves fashioned into a flower or fish,
their color represented the elements. Lapis Lazuli, a deep blue color,
symbolized the night sky, green Feldspar meant new growth and rebirth, Carnelian
Agate, a red color, stood for energy and life. King Tut, in 1336 BC, wore
bracelets made of gold inlaid with colored stones, including Lapis Lazuli. The
Minoans favored using bees and honeycombs as common jewelry designs and flower
buds were popular with the ancient Greeks. Golden serpents, peacocks and doves
were common forms in Western Asia. The Middle Ages is known for lions, dogs,
leopards and other dominant animals, while the Gothic periods romanticized
naturalism with unicorns, stags and swans. By the 1620's naturalistic jewelry
took Paris by storm and with the development of painted enamels, fine detail in
design was made possible during the 17th century. Europe drew inspiration from
the study of botany and Tulips became a huge sensation leading to the term "Tulipomania"
which made its way into lockets, watch cases and the backs of jewels. By the
1700's this floral trend has blossomed into a full fledged style known as
Rococo. In the 19th century, after centuries of isolation, Japan resumed contact
with the west and introduced a whole new set of motifs like bamboo,
chrysanthemums, dragons, cranes and fans. The jewelers of the 1800's again
ascribed symbolism to the elements they designed. Forget-me-nots represented
true love, lilies of the valley meant the return of happiness. The serpent
stood for eternity. The Art Deco movement, with it's explosion of geometric
designs, temporarily abandoned nature as an inspiration but by the 1930's Art
Deco had lost its momentum and jewelry motifs expanded to include nature once
again. • Written by Wendy Adeler Hall |